The Unique Driftless Area
I had visions of low-country deltas during our drive along Illinois’ scenic state Route 84 along the eastern edge of the upper Mississippi River. This area is nothing like that, with rock cliffs towering 1,000 feet from which you can view the river.
Why Glaciers Never Touched the Driftless Area
The Driftless Area is a geologically unique territory represented by Wisconsin, Iowa, Illinois, and Minnesota. We would never have known it existed if not for our interest in fly fishing. The absence of glaciers is how the Driftless Area came to be. Glaciers are known to flatten things, and when they retreat, they leave behind drift (clay, gravel, silt). Because this area escaped the leveling effects of glaciers during the last ice age, its landscape is characterized by ridges, deep river valleys, spring-fed waterfalls, caves, and cold-water trout streams — without drift. We typically think of Iowa as flat, but not in the Driftless region!
Places to Visit When Camping in the Driftless Area
Even if fishing is not your thing, spending time in the Driftless region is well worth it, especially if you enjoy peaceful surroundings and small-town charm. The unassuming beauty of the area is from its scenic creeks and rivers, bucolic farmland, and rolling hills. But it was several small towns we visited that we enjoyed most.
Galena, Illinois
According to Travel and Leisure, Galena is one of the 20 Most Beautiful Small Towns in the U.S. Located in northwestern Illinois, the town is named for the principal ore found in the lead which formed the basis of the region’s early mining economy. Galena is also known for some famous visitors, including Susan B. Anthony and Abraham Lincoln, and where Ulysses S. Grant and his family called home for several years. There is plenty to see and do in Galena, including the Galena and U.S. Grant Museum and a walking tour of the historic downtown.
Elkader, Iowa
Elkader, located in northeastern Iowa, is surrounded by rolling-hilled farms and several trout streams. Conveniently, Deer Run Resort is located within walking distance from downtown. We enjoyed staying here in our RV for several days, as it gave us time to enjoy the little town and explore the area. A short walk to downtown Main Street includes the historic Keystone Bridge, the longest double-arched stone bridge west of the Mississippi. The smell of freshly baked bread from Pedretti’s Bakery on Main Street is one of my favorite memories, but we also enjoyed happy hour beers at Deb’s Brewtopia, dinner at Schera’s Algerian American Restaurant, and browsing the three-story Turkey River Mall filled with antiques and vintage items from the Driftless Area.
Mineral Point, Wisconsin
On the Wisconsin side, the tiny town of Mineral Point is worth a visit. Like Galena, Mineral Point was a bustling and growing city at the center of the lead mining country but later became the largest zinc oxide works in the U.S. The zinc oxide attracted miners from Cornwall in southwestern Great Britain, and by 1850, close to 10,000 Cornish immigrants lived in the Driftless Area. Their heritage is strongly represented here, including traditional Cornish foods such as the pasty.
In addition to a pasty meal at the Red Rooster Cafe in downtown Mineral Point, there are plenty of other things to see, including Shake Rag Alley Center for the Arts. On the 2 ½ acre campus, you can watch artists at work, take part in an arts and crafts workshop, or simply buy some art. Next door is the Pendarvis House, which is managed by the Wisconsin Historical Society. A tour of Pendarvis tells the story of Bob Neal and Edgar Hellum who restored several buildings, all while residing in one of them and managing a restaurant in another. The history of the region comes alive when you visit Pendarvis.
Must-See Parks and Landmarks in the Driftless
In addition to the small towns, there are many other attractions in the area, including Pikes Peak State Park (on the Iowa side of the Mississippi) and Mississippi Palisades State Park (on the Illinois side), Effigy Mounds National Monument, paddling on the Kickapoo River, and Frank Lloyd Wright’s Taliesin home. And you don’t have to be a beer drinker to enjoy a tour of the New Glarus Brewing Company, a Wisconsin family-owned brewery.
Driftless Area Camping: Where to Stay in an RV
There are plenty of choices for campgrounds in the Driftless Area, including several state parks and several Corp of Engineer campgrounds on the Mississippi River. During our visits to the Driftless Area, we stayed at Deer Run RV Resort in Elkader (Iowa), Mississippi Palisades State Park (Illinois), Esofea-Renz County Park (Wisconsin), and William G. Lunney Lake Farm Park (Wisconsin), any of which I would return to. Regardless of where you stay, you will be charmed by the Driftless Area.
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 Connie Mier and her wife Vivian have been living the full-time RV dream since 2018. They have traveled the United States and Canada, exploring the wilderness parks, touring cities and small towns, and learning American history and culture. When not traveling, their home on wheels is parked on Chokoloskee Island, Florida. You can read about their adventures and see more of Connie’s photos at Changing Views. You can also see Connie’s nature photos from her travels and Florida’s Everglades on her website, Constance Mier Photography. |
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